Istanbul and Me

I came to Istanbul kind of expecting a lighter version of Cairo but wow was that a ridiculous assumption. Istanbul is a modern, bustling, culture-packed city that, as far as massive primarily-Muslim cities go, very progressive. A city that is split between both Europe and Asia but most commonly associated with the "Middle East", Istanbul has a very noticeable European flare wherever you go. Full of street side cafes, modern and Western clothing stores and a pretty robust mass-transit system and amazing views of glistening bodies of water on multiple sides, you might even think it was a small country nestled in between France and Italy somewhere.

We're only about 28 hours into our Turkish adventure so far, but I have to say that I really, really like this city. It's not surprising since everyone I've ever talked to that has been here has said the same, but people will tell you that about everywhere they go. I've already decided I would like to move here, which is something I've said about every country I've ever been to - except Panama. But I really do like the feel, the vibe of the city and it's people. Without a doubt, the food is easy for me to love. Add to that the fact that they have an enormous amount of street food and open shop vendors lining most busy streets with everything from bread, corn-on-the-cob and roasting chestnuts to perfectly seasoned and grilled lamb just waiting to be carved off for your next kabob, and you get a place that I like. A place that I get hungry just typing about. A place I can't wait to get off the computer at so I can go find another restaurant to try. Turkey is way more delicious than turkey. We should have to change the name of the bird out of respect.

Today I practiced what I've come to know as the only real way to take in a brand new city - walk it. Walk all over the place. Up hills, down hills, around hills. Walk along any body of water. Walk through every possible market and bazaar. And that is exactlty what I did today. Killing two birds with one stone, two of us from the group headed out on a photowalk from Taksim Square, the vivacious shopping area located just a few blocks from our flat, all the way down the shores of the might Bosphorous, past a little fresh fish market located on the Golden Horn, over to the Spice Bazaar, through many local markets that were thankfully tourist-free, and all the way up to Sultan Amhet, where the primary sites for the day sat. A few hundred pictures and very, very sore legs later, we sat down at what we thought was just a random cafe to get tea (spelled cay, pronounced chai). Tea in Turkey is a way of life...something most sit down for 5 or more times a day. As we walked to the back of the very traditionally decored Turkish cafe, we came out onto a deck with a stunning view of the Maramara Sea. After 20 minutes of sitting on cushions in the sunshine, looking out over the glistening water and doing absolutely nothing but sipping a phenomenal little cup of mint tea (nane chai), the fantasticness of the moment - and the trip - hit me head on. This was the life. Give someone else a week of nothing to do on a beach, give me sipping tea while overlooking the sea in Turkey.

I've joked that this trip is really R&D for Pound, but in someways I see every trip moving forward in that light. My experience with food and culture from around the world so far have a lot to do with what we serve at Pound and the experience we hope to deliver. I've taken in a few new cuisines here already, sampled a select collection of amazing little cakes and pastries and tried my hand at the ultra-intense Turkish coffee. So far, I like it all. Look out Pound fans, Turkey may be leaving an impact on the restaurant soon! And that's a good thing.

It's time for me to get back to the bustling streets of Taksim Square and find my way down the hilly, cobblestone-like streets to our flat. I have to get back to watch the sunset over the Bosphorous, with Asia just a few hundred yards away, while sitting on the balcony off of my bedroom for the week. But I need one last thing to make this experience complete...I'll need a beer. Luckily, there's a store for that!

Turkey! Greece!

In exactly one week and one hour, I will board my United flight from Dulles (IAD) to Istanbul, Turkey (IST) via Munich, Germany (MUC). As you can tell by the last blog entry, it's been almost exactly a year since I left the country. Far too long! The catalyst for this next exciting trip is my good friend Rod's birthday. He's turning 30 and wanted to celebrate in a big way!

Along with about 10 other friends, we'll be in Istanbul for 5 days - all staying in a flat we've rented there. Because my life has been beyond crazy the last few months between my day job and all the new work associated with getting my restaurant and coffee shop, Pound, to a good, profitable place...my planning for this trip has been severely lacking. But this I know - I'll be in Turkey from Wednesday to Monday and then flying Monday morning to Athens, Greece. Only about half the group is making the second leg, but even then they're only staying for two days. Since the Greek islands are a-whole-nother world from Athens, I've extended my trip two extra nights aside from what everyone else is doing.

So many things to see, do and, most importantly, EAT! I just watched Bourdain's show on Turkey a few weeks ago and I'm still hungry from it. I am going to eat well on this trip! As if I don't on all of them. Right.

Hopefully I will get another update in before I actually take off, and I haven't decided how I'm going to do updates from the road. But most likely, my writings will be limited to the time I can find to hang out at net cafes around the area. I will definitely be taking tons of pictures and will be packing my new, super special Nikon D-SLR!

Now I just need to find the time to get as excited about this trip as I should be. I've got the Lonely Planet Turkey book, so I'm half-way there. TURKEY HERE I COME!